Lauren Winant

Peru

Lauren Winant
Peru
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Spending ten days in Peru was insanely amazing, with the only con being I could have spent a solid ten more days there. From exploring ancient Incan ruins, to hiking, to sandboarding, to eating- Peru has so much to offer. Do yourself a favor and go ahead and book your next trip to Peru (when COVID 19 is over…)

During my ten days in Peru I was able to explore Cusco, Lima, and Machu Picchu. From Cusco and Lima there are countless day trips, which I am excited to share.


Accommodation- I usually try to book my accommodation in advance, but I knew this trip was going to be a go with the flow type of ten days. With that being said I also knew that it was low season in Peru and would be able to easily find accommodation last minute and day by day. I stayed in hostels, like I always seem to do, shout out to HostelWorld. Dorms cost about $5 to $10 and private rooms are about $10 to $15 (again, this is during the low season). I was traveling with my best friend and we opted for private rooms at all the hostels we stayed in.

Transportation- Peru is a massive country, but from trains to planes to buses you will have no trouble getting around. Due to the short amount of time we had in Peru, the best option was to fly between Lima and Cusco. Cusco does not have international flights, therefore you will need to fly back through Lima to leave the country. Many of the tours we took were on buses and trains. We also took taxis to get around the cities and to get to and from the airport. There are also public buses, if need be. Overnight buses are a reliable option and can help by saving money on accommodation for a night. Peru Hop offers many different and affordable routes, and I was extremely pleased with their service for our day trip to Paracas and Huacachina from Lima. They have plenty of options for you to plan out your perfect Peru itinerary.


Cusco

Many people experience altitude sickness in Cusco, and although we were fortunate enough not to, we still took the necessary precautions once arriving here. Stay hydrated and drink coca tea (tea bags and leaves both work). Go to a pharmacy and purchase pills to start taking right away to help with altitude sickness.

San Pedro Market- The moment you walk into the market you will be overwhelmed with how much the market has. This is a great place to grab some souvenirs- there is jewelry, keychains, magnets, backpacks, etc. These are not the only thing the market offers; many locals frequent here for their meats, produce, flowers, spices, and textiles. Do not let the strong smells deter you from walking around the whole market. Get a glimpse at the local cuisine, although I do not suggest grabbing lunch here only because your stomach might not be able to handle the food. Grab a smoothie from a local fruit vendor, just make sure they use bottled water to make it. Once leaving the market and heading back into the center of Cusco, there are many vendors selling various food on the streets- we snagged a piece of watermelon and it was ohhh, so fresh.

Saqsaywaman- An Incan site made of huge stones that were designed to protect the city. It is about a thirty minute hike up to this site from the center of Cusco. The boulders were cut so precisely that they fit together perfectly with no mortar. When we arrived at the ticket office we learned that the ticket was about $30. A local was standing nearby and without hesitation told us he could take us by car to the first level of the fortress, where there would be no cost to see this part of the wall. We obviously took him up on this offer and ended up going on his horses to a couple other sites in the area. After the fact, we learned you can buy tickets online which offers access to Sacred Valley sites.

Temple of the Moon & Temple of the Monkeys- We rode horses to both of these sites, which was an extremely tranquil and gorgeous journey. It was surreal to be riding horses in the middle of Peru surrounded by the most beautiful scenery. These smaller ruins were free, wonderful to see, and much quieter than other sites we explored in Peru.

Cristo Blanco- This is in the same area as the Saqsaywaman, it is about a ten minute walk away. You can see this statue of Jesus Christ from most places in Cusco. The view from here is also breathtaking (like most things in Cusco due to the altitude) and offers a panoramic view of the historic center of the city and the surrounding areas. This would be a great place to check out during sunset due to its amazing views.

Chocolate Museum- It wasn’t until tasting almost every sample of chocolate that we realized there actually was a museum and it was not just a chocolate store, oops! The museum is free and includes a guided tour. Throughout the tour, you will learn the history of chocolate, the process of making it and learn about the many samples you’ll indulge in. We were able to taste dark chocolate, coca chocolate, white chocolate, hot chocolate, chocolate tea, and chocolate piscos. They also offer a chocolate-making class, which looked incredible.

Qorikancha Temple- an Incan Temple that was once covered in pure gold. The Incans were forced to collect ransom to free their leader, Atahualpa, which resulted in stripping the gold from here. The Spanish also built the Convent of Santo Domingo on the remaining foundation of this temple. Do not skip over the beautiful gardens found on the temple’s grounds.

Plaza De Armas- This is the main square in Cusco and has the Cusco Cathedral and Church la Compañía de Jesús. Find a bench in the beautiful colonial center and soak up the sun.

San Blas District- A cool, trendy, hip neighborhood in Cusco to joyfully wander around. These little cobblestone streets offer some of the best restaurants, coffee shops, and boutiques.

Massages- Women will continuously ask if you want a massage while walking around Plaza de Armas. On our last day in Cusco we finally caved and decided to get a thirty minute massage, which cost $5 and was heavenly. They brought us into a little room where we received our massages and we never felt unsafe or uncomfortable.

Food in Cusco

Green Point- Hands down one of my favorite restaurants in Cusco with a delicious plant-based menu. Green Point felt like we were in a greenhouse oasis and the food was to die for.

Ceviche Seafood Kitchen- This was the best ceviche we had in Peru, in our opinion of course. They have a modern take on traditional ceviche, and the restaurant was nautical-themed and decorated oh, so cutely. The drinks were also an added bonus to this great meal and experience.

Pachapapa- A relaxed atmosphere with outdoor seating and delicious typical Peruvian food. This is a great place to try guinea pig, although we did not...

Limbus Resto Bar - Wonderful place to grab sunset cocktails.  The view is worth going for alone, and the cocktails were definitely a plus. They have specialty cocktails that come in all types of fun glasses. It is a little bit on the pricier side for Peru, but absolutely worth it.

Cappuccino Cafe- Amazing cafe to grab breakfast or an afternoon coffee with an incredible view over Plaza de Armas. Sit back and relax while enjoying the stunning view and people-watching from above.

Marcelo Batata- High quality Peruvian food with delicious cocktails. There is a small rooftop terrace, it is the place to be if looking for a sunset spot. Be sure to make a reservation or go early to secure a table.

L’atelier Cafe Concept- Grab a slice of cake and cup of tea/coffee at the cutest cafe looking over San Blas. There are two tables that are setup at the window; sit back and enjoy the stunning city of Cusco. The cafe also dubs as a unique boutique with some great finds.

Peru UK- A mix of Peruvian food and British classics, best of both worlds.

Other recs but didn't make it to:

Morena- contemporary Peruvian food

Qura Bowl Bar

Organika Restaurant

Paddy's Irish Pub- good for drinks or a night out

Museo Del Pisco- great place to grab drinks

Jack’s Cafe

View House- chill rooftop


Machu Picchu

We went to Machu Picchu during rainy season (February), so the trail was closed during this time, which means we took a bus and train to get there. Let’s be real, even if it wasn’t rainy season, ya girl was not going to trek for four days. Buy your tickets ahead of time online, especially if you plan on going during busy season. Tickets to only Machu Picchu are about $50, but there are other options- you can buy a combined ticket and also hike up Huayna Picchu. Make sure to research your options since this will most likely be a once in a lifetime opportunity. The sooner you book your trains and buses, the cheaper they will be. We booked through Inca Rail. There was a 2 hour bus ride to Ollantaytambo and then from there, an hour and a half train to Aguas Calientes. The journey was effortless, as they handle everything for you, and it cost $65 one way. We were served lunch and a drink on the train to Aguas Calientes. Stick to bringing small luggage, there is only a small space on the train for your bags- we both had medium sized backpacks. Consider leaving your luggage at your hotel in Cusco or at the train station in Ollantaytambo. Once arriving in Aguas Calientes head to the bus station to buy your bus tickets up to Machu Picchu- $24 round trip (unless of course you are going to trek).

You will need to show your passport and printed ticket once you arrive at Machu Picchu, DO NOT forget either!! Our time slot was at 8 a.m. and when we arrived it was raining and completely fogged over. We were determined to wait around for however long it was going to take to see Machu Picchu, I mean we did only come to Peru for this. Every now and again we would get a glimpse of what was beyond the clouds.

After waiting for two hours, the clouds FINALLY broke. It felt like one of the most magical moments to see how truly breathtaking Machu Picchu is. We waited at the beginning of Machu Picchu for the first two hours for the clouds to break.

Once you start walking through you are not allowed to backtrack, although there are many amazing views and photo opportunities throughout. The actual ticket for Machu Picchu is not that expensive, it is the transportation that adds up quickly, racking up the price. Check out this site for specific details for buying Machu Picchu tickets.

Ollantaytambo- A cute village nestled at the bottom of ancient Incan ruins. A full day here is plenty of time to walk around this picturesque town. A train from Aguas Calientes was $70 (we bought our train ticket the day of, hence why it was so expensive, oops!). Again, if you can buy your tickets ahead of time, you should. We had every intention to walk, or shall I say climb, the steps of the ruin, but unfortunately $35 for a ticket was as steep as the steps and we opted not to. After the fact, I had read that if you buy the Cusco Boleto Turistico, this ruin is included in the ticket.

Moray & Maras Salt Mines- We made a deal with a taxi driver to take us to both sites from Ollantaytambo and then to Cusco for $35 total. Moray is another Incan ruin and pretty spectacular. It is a mystery of what this bowl-like structure was used for, but many speculate it was used to cultivate plants. This is another Incan site that is part of the Cusco Boleto Turistico. If you do not have this ticket, a ticket for this site is $35. The Maras Salt Mines are thousands of salt pools from Incan times and cost $3 to explore. The salt mines lay between gorgeous mountain ranges and is a beautiful site to see while in Peru.

Humantay Lake- An absolutely stunning turquoise lake nestled in between snowcapped mountains. The lake is absolutely breathtaking or this could be because of the 4,200 meter altitude. This was one of the hardest hikes either of us have ever done…it is less than an hour and a half but the altitude does intensify the hike. We did a tour for $30 and were picked up at 5 am. After the first two hours we stopped for breakfast, and then had another hour drive before arriving at the bottom of the hike. If you are prone to car sickness, be sure to take some medicine, such as Dramamine, because this was an extremely bumpy journey. Use the toilets before starting the hike and pack water and snacks. The journey back to Cusco is the same, except you stop for lunch at the same place instead of breakfast. This hike is intimidating, but the view once arriving at the lake is spectacular.

Pisac Ruins and Market- Did not make it to.

Rainbow Mountain- Did not make it to.

Lima

Miraflores-

Walk down the Malecón

Parasail off the cliffs

Check out the Faro La Marina- lighthouse

Explore Parque del Amor- Love Park

Huaca Pucllana- pre-Inca ruins

Barranco-

Walk the Puente de Los Suspiros

Wander through these streets to check out amazing murals

“Party district”

Lima Food

El Muelle- relaxed cevicheria

Barranco Beer Company- A hip brewery with great beer selections

Edo- Peruvian flare on sushi along with traditional rolls.

Ayahuasca- a bar/ restaurant in a mansion with vibrant cocktails

La Mar- traditional cevicheria and offers other fabulous seafood dishes

Chez Wong- only open for lunch and is seafood cuisine

These three restaurants were ranked in the world’s top 50 restaurants, unfortunately we were not able to make a reservation.

Centrale- Peruvian fusion

Maido- Peruvia- Japanese fusion

Astrid y Gaston- Peruvian & seafood


Day trip to Paracas & Huacachina- We did a day trip on Peru Hop for $120. We were picked up from Lima between 5:00 am and 6:00 am and then had a four hour bus ride to Paracas. After arriving in Paracas there was a two hour speed boat tour of the Ballestas Islands- during this boat ride you will see many animals in their natural habitat, such as sea lions, penguins, crabs, and countless of birds. You then have time to eat lunch, which is not included in the tour price.

From there you drive for an hour and 15 minutes to Huacachina Oasis, the only natural desert oasis in South America. You will have time to explore this little town and then two hours of dune buggies and sandboarding. These are the biggest sand dunes in South America and we underestimated how steep these hills are and how fast you fly down them. After that, the bus ride to Lima is about 4.5 to 5 hours. The tour guide is bilingual and extremely helpful, always giving you the play-by-play for the day. This was an extremely long day, but incredibly worth it. During each bus ride we took advantage of the downtime and napped.

Tips- Bring Imodium or charcoal and Dramamine for car sickness. Research hostels, because not all have heaters and it gets rather chilly at night in Cusco. Pack layers, an umbrella, and a rain coat for Cusco. Do not have your windows down in taxis when in Lima, people will try to reach in and steal your belongings. Do not drink tap water or ice. If possible, book Machu Picchu tickets, Aguas Calientes trains/ buses, and Cusco Boleto Turistico ahead of time.

I left a piece of my heart in Peru and am looking forward to going back and exploring more of this beautiful country.